Sample a World of Oysters at Luke Wholey's Wild Alaskan Grille

Slurping down the meat of a cold oyster is to warm weather as a gritty shell is to a squirt of lemon juice — an elegant antithesis. Luke Wholey’s Wild Alaskan Grille has raw oysters on the half shell, as well as some delectable preparations, to enjoy while soaking up the rays in their open, sunny restaurant. “Water is still cold in the spring, so the oysters are still plump,” says Luke Wholey. “It’s a really fresh flavor.” He capitalizes on that flavor by, in one dish, pairing oysters with citrus-marinated fennel, chives, and garlic. The textures mingle for a crisp take on a classic. For some comfort dining, Luke Wholey’s offers fried oysters — jumbo oyster meat served with a cocktail horseradish dipping sauce; the shellfish flavor is muted but not lost in a zesty breading. Any preparation of these oysters is our juicy choice for spring.

Luke Wholey’s Wild Alaskan Grille, 2106 Penn Ave., Strip District. 412.904.4509. lukewholey.com.